Kyoto–Tango: A Celebrated Silk-Weaving Region
Kyoto’s Tango area is one of Japan’s most renowned silk weaving centers. It is a region that has long preserved both traditional practices and its own unique production background.
There are the terms oyabata and debata. The oyabata assumes the risks of thread supply and production adjustments, while the debata take the main role in weaving the fabric. Each debata keeps a loom in their own home, weaving there individually. This system itself is the foundation of the local industry, supported by the entire regional network, and even today it continues unchanged, sustaining the craft.
Rapier Looms and the Pursuit of Thread Quality
Our partners mainly use rapier looms. These are now regarded as vintage machines. Why continue to use them? The reason lies in our uncompromising dedication to thread.
Because they are old machines, they are what is called low-speed looms. The yarns we use are some of the finest in the world, spun with a gentler twist than usual—reduced to around 150 twists per meter instead of the standard 250. For dyeing, we adopt the inefficient method of kasezome (skein dyeing). By contrast, with cheese dyeing the softness of these loosely twisted yarns would be spoiled.
Preserving the True Nature of Silk
All of this is to make the most of the natural sheen and softness of silk. If woven densely on modern high-speed looms, the delicate threads would snap and not withstand the tension. Therefore, only slow-speed looms could be used. Rather than rely on special treatments, we remain committed to the inherent quality of the highest-grade silk. Such devotion to thread-making is rare even worldwide.
The fabric density has also been raised to the maximum that our partners’ rapier looms can accommodate. For example, in the dotted fabric shown in the video:
- About 15,000 warp threads are set within 1.5 meters.
- The weft holds about 505 threads within 3 centimeters.
In this way, the delicate yarn is transformed into a fabric that can be cherished and worn for many years. Truly, it becomes a textile worthy of the Masterpiece Collection.
